Getting to know Gems
Becoming intimate with Gems
The major cost of the engagement ring is often the sparkling diamond or shimmering colored gemstone that you select to adorn it. To avoid costly mistakes, it is very important to learn as much as possible about the stone you are considering. The best way to take the risk out of buying a particular gem is to familiarize yourself with the gem. While the average consumer can’t hope to make the same precise judgments as a qualified gemologist whose scientific training and wealth of practical experience provide a far greater data base from which to operate, the consumer can learn to judge a gemstone as a “total personality” and learn what the critical factors are; color, clarity (sometimes referred to in the trade as “perfection”), sparkle and brilliance, and weight, and how to balance them in judging the gem’s value. Learning about these factors spending time in the marketplace looking, listening, and asking questions before making the purchase will prepare you to be a wise buyer more likely to get what you really want, at a fair price.
Selecting a Diamond
The diamond engagement ring has emerged as the universal symbol of love and commitment between two people. Not only is it the formal beginning; visible “announcement” of your your engagement, but the centuries old symbolism surrounding diamond reflects both the preciousness of the moment and commitment made by two people in love to cherish each other forever.
While some woman prefer other gems to diamond, or opt for the special significant of a family heirloom, a diamond is the overwhelming choice of today’s bride.
Some brides to be have no doubt been taken by surprise with the unexpected presentation of an engagement ring, but it is probably safest to go about the task of selecting the ring together. While the element of surprise is very romantic, keep in mind that the engagement ring is meant to be worn for a lifetime. So it is especially important that the bride-to-be really loves it; that it reflects her personal taste and style. If you are a die hard romantic who wants to surprise her, we suggest placing a photo of a ring you like inside the “tiny black ring box” and presenting her with this instead; it combines romance with practicality, and you are sending another important message: not only do you love her, but you understand the importance of working together on such important decision!
The previous and following articles, we will give everything you need to know to purchase a diamond with greater confidence; whether you are shopping for an engagement ring, wedding or anniversary band, or simply a beautiful piece of diamond jewelry to commemorate an important moment. The greater your awareness of the elements that determine diamond quality, the better chances of knowing what you want, getting exactly what you are after, and deriving lasting pleasure from it.
- What is diamond?
Chemically speaking, a diamond is the simplest of all gemstones. A diamond is plain, crystallized carbon; the same substance, chemically, as the soot left on the inside of a glass globe after the burning of a candle; it is the same substance used in lead pencils.
The diamond differs from these in its crystal form, which gives it the desirable properties have made it so highly prized; its hardness, which gives it unsurpassed wear-ability; its brilliance; and its fire. (But note that while diamond is the hardest natural substance known, it can be chipped or broken if hit hard from certain angles, and if the “girdle” has been cut too thin it can be chipped with even a modest blow.)
The transparent white colorless) diamond is most popular variety, but diamond also occurs in colors. When color is prominent it is called a fancy diamond. Diamond is frequently found in nice yellow and brown shades. Diamond color such as pink, light blue, light green, and lavender occur much more rarely. In diamonds, the colors seen are usually pastel. Deep diamond colors in hues of red, green, and dark blue are extremely rare. Historically, most colored diamonds have sold for more than their colorless counterparts, except for light yellow or brown varieties. Yellow or brown in very pale shades may not be fancy diamonds but off color stones that are very common and sell for much less than colorless diamonds or those with true “fancy” color.
In addition to natural color diamonds, “fancies” that have obtained their color artificially, through exposure to certain types of radiation and heating techniques, are readily available. The bill of sale (and any accompanying certification appraisal, etc.) should specify whether the color is natural or induced. If induced, the price should be much less, although the gem will often be just as beautiful as one with a natural color.
- The four factors that determine diamond value
Diamond quality and value are determined by four factors. These are called the “Four C’s.” If we were to rank then based on their important in determining the value of a diamond, we would list them as follows:
- Color (body color)
- Clarity (degree of flawlessness)
- Cutting and proportioning (often referred to as the make)
- Carat weight (which affects the size)
In terms of determining beauty, however, we would rank them in a different order:
1. Cutting and proportioning
2. Color
3. Clarity
4. Carat weight
Tips on getting the diamond you really want, within your budget
If you have an unlimited budget, you may feel it’s important to have a large stone of the finest quality available; a “D” flawless with an ideal make. But for most of us who must work within a limited budget, selecting the correct ring is a matter of learning how to juggle, and discovering what factors will best meet our needs, emotional as well as financial.
- In diamonds, go for color and sparkle first
If you have a limited budget, you have to compromise on something; either the size, color, clarity (flaw grade), or liveliness. Of these four factors, one can see size, color, and liveliness. In terms of what most people notice on the finger, the clarity is the least important in our opinion. Personally, on a limited budget we would choose a stone with the best possible color and liveliness personality.
What most people don’t understand is that even in SI2 diamonds, flaws are not really noticeable when the diamond is being worn and, in most cases, can’t be seen at all without using a magnifier. In fact, if you take a well cut one carat D-color and FL (Flawless)-clarity diamond and hold it nest to a well cut one carat D/SI2 diamond, you will not see any difference with the naked eye. Contrary to what many think, it is not the clarity grade that determines how lively an brilliant a diamond will be, But its cut and proportioning. And you may feel much more sparkling yourself if you can spend $7,500 for a diamond, D/SI2, that could look like a $36,000, D/IF, diamond to anyone without a magnifier!
The diamond brilliance and liveliness is as important as its color. After all, that’s what sets the gem apart from glass and cheap imitations. A well cut diamond has more sparkle; more brilliance and “fire,” than any other gem. But the key to the sparkle is in its being well cut. We have seen diamonds that were so badly cut that they had no life at all. In fact, one might just as well be looking at a piece of glass.
For this reason, we prefer diamonds with very fine makes. Diamonds that are cut to look a little larger than they actually are can also be pretty, but when they are cut too spread, they will be lifeless. In our opinion, we’d rather buy a diamond that’s cut exceptionally well; a diamond that really dances before the eye, even though it costs more. Because it does cost more, we would consider lowering the color grade a little in exchange for the best possible “make,” or coming down in size a little. As you shop around, be sure to pay attention to the way a diamond is cut. Ask to see diamonds with “ideal” makes. You’ll soon be able to spot differences in brilliance and liveliness. Then your eye will help you find the right balance for your own budget.
- A small difference in points can make a big difference in dollars.
The cost of a diamond increases significantly when it reaches the full, 1 carat weight. However, try to find a diamond that weight 90 points (or 9/10 of a carat). When set, few can see the difference between a 90 points diamond and one that is a full one carat diamond. The difference, however, is very noticeable in dollars. Where a fine one carat diamond (G/VS1 quality) might sell for $9,800, the same quality diamond weighting 90 points might cost only $8,500. The money you save could pay for a beautiful diamond studded wedding band!
A word of caution: Be careful that you aren’t sold a diamond that is too “spread” (a term used to describe a diamond that is cut to look larger than its real weight). We’ve seen diamonds weighing 90 points that are actually LARGER in dimension than 1 carat diamond that is cut well. These diamonds usually lack the brilliance and sparkle of a well made diamond. You may be pleased with with their size, but make sure you are pleased with the sparkle. After all, if you are paying for a diamond, you deserve a stone that show its full beauty.
- What to consider when selecting the color grade.
D-color is the rarest and most expensive color in white diamonds. There are very few diamonds that receive this very high grade. Diamonds graded from D through H on the GIA scale are graded in the “white” by other grading systems and, when mounted, will appear white. I and J colors are colored “slightly tinted” by other systems and you may see some yellowish or brownish tint in the stone body color. K and L may also be called “tinted white,” and you can more easily see the tint. M through Z may also be called “tinted color” or “off white” and appear yellowish or brownish white.
The difference in cost between D and E color, however; even though both considered “white” diamonds, can be significant.
It is important to remember that when a diamond is set, it is extremely difficult to tell the difference between D, E, and F colors without comparing them immediately nest to each other. For those on a budget, selecting a diamond with E, F, or G color rather than D might enable you to bets meet all your expectations; a “white’” diamond with lots of sparkle in a pleasing size.
- The color of your setting can make your diamond appear more white.
If you are on a limited budget, keep in mind that if you feel you can’t afford a diamond as white as you would like and still have the size and sparkle that’s important, setting the stone in a white gold or platinum may make the diamond appear more white than it really is. Less white diamonds (L through M colors) can actually look more white in a white gold or platinum setting; the whiteness of the metal is reflected into the diamond and masks the yellow, making the diamond appear more white. Yellowish tinted diamond ( M - Z Colors) usually look more white in a yellow gold setting, where the contrast with with the bright yellow of the setting masks the yellowish tint of the diamond and often makes it appear more white.
- Flaws may mar the beauty of your diamond ring less than you think.
On a budget, they may add beauty! As discussed previously, flaws cannot normally be seen in a mounted diamond with the naked eye until the classification I1 clarity! And even in diamonds classified as “I’” flaws are not immediately visible when the diamond is set, especially when worn. So, while it’s important to know what the flaw grade is to be sure you are paying the correct price, this is the factor you can stretch the farthest without affecting the beauty of the diamond you select. It’s one area in which juggling can dramatically affect the budget while not affecting the sparkle. Therefore, we normally recommend trying to meet your personal preferences regarding the other three factors first. The price difference between Flawless and Internally Flawless, and each successive grade, can be dramatic. Looking at the diamonds without using a loupe, the D/SI@ would look like the D/IF!
- Consider shapes other than round.
While the round brilliant cut diamond is considered by most to be the cut that best reveals the diamond’s maximum beauty, it normally looks smaller than diamonds cut in other shapes. Today women are showing an increased interest in other shapes. In comparison to the round, pear shaped diamonds and marquise shaped diamonds look larger.
- Consider a design that uses several small stones than one large diamond.
As we discussed in greater depth in previous articles, may beautiful designs use several small diamonds rather than one large diamond. These designs offer a beautiful way to keep the budget down. The smaller the diamond, the lower the price per carat. For example, a one carat round brilliant cut diamond set in a solitaire ring more than a ring containing three diamonds having a total weight of one carat (each diamond weighing 1/3 carat). A solitaire, while it is the most popular ring style among new brides-to-be, is also the most expensive.
Look for the innovative designs available in multi gemstone rings. These offer an alternative that can create a very important and individual look.
- Illusion settings.
Certain settings create an illusion that diamond is larger than it is.
- Bold designs in gold and platinum add importance and distinctiveness to smaller diamonds.
New designs reflecting today’s more independent woman have had a major impact on the engagement ring and wedding band market. Using wider, innovative designs in metal can create a very impressive look, using a smaller diamond (less that one carat) as well as larger diamonds.
- Listen to your heart as well as your head.
The most important consideration in the selection of your engagement ring is how you feel about it. You want to feel a thrill; you want to feel excited; you want it to be your choice. If you really prefer yellow gold, don’t let someone talk you into platinum; if you really prefer the pear shape diamond, don’t let someone talk you into round shape diamond.
One of our clients was torn between two diamonds; one had the finest possible color D and she knew it was the “better” diamond.
The other was a little larger and it was not quite as white, F color, but it had a magnificent make and the sparkle was really dazzling. She decided on the slightly larger diamond, even though it was F color, because she was honest with herself and her fiancee; she really preferred a diamond that was a little larger, she was constantly drawn back to that diamond because of its “personality.” The other diamond was a “rarer” stone, color-wise, which made it more expensive on the per carat basis, but it was not the one she really felt excited about. She made the right choice in going with her heart and not her head!
Diamond Grading report (certificate)
Today, few fine diamonds over one carat are sold without a diamond grading report (or certificate, as they are also called) from a respected laboratory. Reports issued by the GIA, Gem Trade laboratory, are the most widely used in the United States and in many countries around the world.
A grading report does more than certify the diamond’s genuineness; it fully describes the stone and evaluates each of the critical factors affecting quality, beauty, and value. The information they contain can provide verification of the facts as represented by the seller and enable one to make a safer decision when purchasing a diamond. Another important function of the reports is to verify the identity of the specific diamond at some some future time. Also for insurance purposes, the the information provided on the report will ensure replacement of the lost or stolen diamond with one that is truly compatible quality.
The availability and widespread use of these reports can, when properly understood, enable even those without professional skills to make valid comparison between several diamonds and more informed buying decisions.
The article above can be used on your web site or newsletter.
When it is published, May I request that you include my name and resource box (the bio., contact and copyright information that follows the article. I would also appreciate if you could send me an e-mail of notification along with a complimentary copy of publication.
Bijan Aziz is the owner and Web Master for The Jewelry Hut.
http://www.thejewelryhut.com
The best source for fine Diamond, gemstone, and Pearl Jewelry on the Web
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Colorful choices in colored Gemstones
The big three; Emerald, Ruby, and Sapphire
- Emerald
Emerald is the green variety of the mineral beryl and one the most highly prized of all the gems. Emerald aside from being the birthstone for May, it was historically believed to bestow on its wearer faithfulness and unchanging love, and was thought to enable the wearer to forecast events.
The highest quality emerald has the color of fresh young green grass; an almost pure spectral green, possibly with a very faint tint of blue, as in the finest emerald from Colombia, which is considered by connoisseurs to be the world’s finest. Flawless emeralds are rare, so their “flaws” have come to serve almost as “fingerprints,” while flawless emeralds are immediately suspect. Although a hard stone, emerald will chip easily since it tends to be somewhat brittle, so special care should be given in wearing and handling.
Because of emerald’s popularity and value, imitations are abundant. Glass, manufactured complete with “flaws,” and doublets or triplets, like “aquamarine emeralds” and “Telca emeralds,” are often encountered. New products such as the “Lannyte Emerald Doublet” are also entering the market; when properly represented, they can make an interesting jewelry choice, but a second or third party may fail to mention that they are “doublets.”
Also, fine synthetic emeralds are being produced with nearly the same color, hardness, and brilliance as genuine emerald. These synthetics are not inexpensive themselves, except by comparison to a genuine emerald of equivalent quality.
Techniques are enhance color and reduce the visibility of flaws are frequently used. A common practice is to boil the emerald in oil (sometimes tinted green), a practice that goes back to early Greek times. This is a widely accepted trade practice, since it is actually good for the stone in light of its fragile nature. Oiling hides some of the whitish flaws, which are actually cracks, filling the cracks so they become less visible. The oil becomes an integral part of the emerald unless it is subjected to some type of degreasing procedure. The development and use of the ultrasonic cleaner has brought to light the extensiveness of this practice. Never clean emeralds in an ultrasonic cleaner.
Oiling is considered an acceptable practice, but be sure the price reflects the actual quality of the stone. If necessary, most emeralds can be “re-oiled.”
As with all highly desired gems, the greater the value and demand, the greater the occurrence of fraudulent practices. Examples of almost every type of technique to simulate emerald can be found; color alteration by using green foil on closed backs, use of synthetics, substitution of less valuable green stones, doublets, or other composites, etc. Therefore, be especially cautions of bargains, deal with reputable jewelers when planning to purchase an emerald gemstone, and always have a the purchase double checked by a qualified gemologist appraiser.
- Ruby
Ruby prized through the ages, even by kings, as the “gem of gems … surpassing all other precious stones in virtue,” ruby is the red variety of the mineral corundum. Historically, ruby has been symbolic of love and passion, considered to be an aid to firm friendship, and believed o ensure beauty. Today, ruby is birthstone for July, ruby’s color ranges from purplish or bluish red to a yellow red. The finest color is a vivid, almost pure spectral red with a very faint undertone of blue, as seen in Burmese rubies, which are considered the finest. The ruby is very brilliant and very hard, ranking 9 on Moh’s scale (an internationally recognized standard that ranges from 1 for very soft to 10 the very hardest). Ruby is also very durable and wearable, characteristics that make it an unusually fine choice for any piece of jewelry.
Translucent varieties of ruby are also seen, and one variety exhibits a six-ray star effect when cut as a cabochon. This variety is called star ruby and is one of nature’s most beautiful and interesting gifts. But, as with so many other beautiful gifts once produced only in nature, these lovely gems are now duplicated in synthetic star rubies, and numerous “faked” star rubies are also the products of mankind’s attempts at mimicry.
Again, remember that the greater the value and demand, the greater the use of techniques to “improve” or simulate. Among rubies, as among other gemstones, examples of almost every type of deceptive technique can be found; color enhancement, synthesis, substitutes, doublets, triplets, misleading names, and so on. The newest laboratory gown synthetic rubies, like those made by Ramaura and Chatham, are so close to natural ruby in every aspect that many are actually passing for genuine, even among gemologists. When getting a very fine, valuable ruby, be sure to verify genuineness with a gemologist who has both many years’ experience in colored gems and an astute knowledge of marketplace today. We would also recommend having the jeweler or gemologist also obtain a colored gemstone report from a major gem testing laboratory.
Here again, be especially cautious of bargains. Deal with reputable jewelers when planning to purchase a ruby gemstone, and have the purchase double checked by a qualified gemologist appraiser.
- Sapphire
Sapphire the “celestial” sapphire, symbol of the heaven, guardian of innocence, bestower of truth and good health, preserver of chastity, is in fact the mineral corundum. While we know it best in its blue varieties, which is highly prized, it comes in essentially every color; red corundum is ruby. As with with ruby, its sister gemstone, sapphire is characterized by hardness, brilliance, and availability in many beautiful colors, all of which make it probably the most important and most versatile of the gem families.
Blue sapphires can be among the most valuable members of the sapphire family; especially stones from Burma and Kashmir, which closet to the pure spectral blue. Fine, brilliant, deep blue Burmese sapphires will surely dazzle the eye and the pocketbook, as will the Kashmir, which is a fine velvety toned deep blue. Many tend to be too dark, however, because of presence of too much black and pure cuttin (cutting deep for additional weight), but the deep blues can be treated to lighten the color.
The Ceylon (Sir Lanka) sapphires are a very pleasing blue, but are a less deep shade than the Burmese or Kashmir, instead tending yo fall more on the pastel side.
We are also seeing many Australian sapphires, which are often a dark blue, but with a slightly green undertone, as are those from Thailand; both sell for much less per carat. They offer a very affordable alternative to the Burmese, Kashmir, or Ceylon, and can still be very pleasing in their color. Blue sapphires also come Tanzania, Brazil, Africa, and even United States. Montana sapphires are very collectible because of their unusual shades of color, and because many are natural color, that is not subjected to any treatment. For those who want a gem that is truly “natural,: Montana sapphire may be the choice for you.
With sapphires, origin can have a significant effect on price, so if you are purchasing a Kashmir, Burmese, or Ceylon sapphire, that should be noted on the bill of sale.
Like ruby, the blue sapphire may be found in a translucent variety that may show a six rayed star effect when cut into a cabochon. This variety is known as star sapphire, of which there are numerous synthetics (often referred to the trade as “Linde,” pronounced Lin’ dee).
In addition to blue sapphire, we are now seeing the appearance of many other color varieties in the latest jewelry designs; especially yellow and pink, and in smaller sizes some beautiful shades of green. These are known as fancy sapphires. Compared to the cost of blue sapphire and ruby, these stones offer excellent value and real beauty.
A beautiful and variety called padparadscha (a type of lotus flower) is also in demand. The true padaradshca should exhibit a pink and orange color simultaneously. Depending upon richness of color, brilliance, and size, these can be very expensive. A lovely but more common and more affordable variety is available today which is really a rich orange color. It is often sold as padaradscha but the rarer and more costly gem will always exhibit a strong pink with the orange.
Inevitably, evidence abounds of every technique known to improve the perceived quality and value of the sapphire; alteration of color, synthesis, composites, and misleading names. Techniques have been developed to treat natural sapphires to remove a certain type of flaw (needle inclusions) and to change the color; for example, to create a “Ceylon” sapphire that never came from Sri Lanka but whose color looks like that of a Ceylon. Be especially alert to the new diffusion treated blue sapphire, which is blue on the surface only. Also, watch out for the new true doublets flooding the market. As always, we urge you to be especially cautious of bargains, deal with reputable jewelers, and have your gemstone double checked by a qualified gemelogist appraiser.
Other popular colored gems
- Alexandrite
Alexandrite is a fascinating transparent gem that appears grass green in daylight and raspberry red under artificial light. It is a variety of chrysoberyl reputedly discovered in Russia in 1831 on the day Alexander II reached his majority; hence the name. In Russia, where the national colors also happen to be green and red, it is considered a stone of very good omen. It is also considered Friday’s stone or the stone of “Friday’s child.”
Unlike other gemstones, which mankind has known about and admired for thousands of years, Alexandrite is a relatively recent gem discovery. Nonetheless, it has definitely come into its own and is presently commanding both high appeal and high prices. While fairly common in small sizes, it has becomes relatively scarce in sizes of two carats or more. If you see an alexandrite that measures more than half inch in width, be suspicious of a fake. Alexandrite is normally cut in a faceted style, but some cat’s eye type alexandrite, found in Brazil, would be cut as cabochon to display the eye effect. These are usually small; the largest have been seen was approximately three carats.
Prior 1973, there was really no good synthetic alexandrite. While some varieties of synthetic corundum and synthetic spinel were frequently sold as alexandrite, they really didn’t look like the real thing but were hard to differentiate since so few buyers had ever seen genuine stones. They are, however, easy for a gemologist to spot. In 1973 a very good synthetic alexandrite was produced, which is not easy to differentiate from natural stones. While a good gemologist today can identify the synthetics, when they first appeared on the market many were mistaken for real one. Be especially careful to verify the authenticity of your alexandrite, sine it might have been mistakenly identified years ago, and passed along as authentic to you.
- Amber
Amber is not a stone, but rather an amorphous, fossilized tree sap. It was one of the earliest substances used for personal adornment. Modestly decorated pieces of rough amber have been found in Stone Age excavations and are assumed to have been used as amulets and talismans; a use definitely recorded throughout history before, during, and since the ancient Greeks. Because of its beautiful color and the ease with which it could be fashioned, amber quickly became a favorite object of trade and barter and personal adornment. Amber varies from transparent to semi-translucent, and from yellow to dark brown in color; occasionally it’s seen in reddish and greenish brown tones. In addition, amber can be dyed many colors. Occasionally, on can find “foreign” fragments or insects that were trapped in the amber, which usually increases its value because of the added curiosity factor.
Plastics are the most common amber imitations. But real amber, which is the lightest gem material, may be easily distinguished from most plastic when dropped into a saturated salt solution; amber will float while plastic sinks. One other commonly encountered “amber” type is “reconstructed” amber; amber fragments compressed under heat to form a larger piece. An expert can differentiate this from the real one under magnification.
Amber can be easily tested by touching it in an inconspicuous place with a hot needle (held by a tweezers). The whitish smoke that should be produced should smell like burning pine wood, not like medicine or disinfectant. If there is no smoke, but a black mark occurs, then it is not amber. Another test is to try to cut a little piece of the amber with a sharp pointed knife, at the drill hole of the bead; if it cuts like wood (producing a shaving), it is not amber, which would produce a sharp, crumbly deposit.
With the exception of those pieces possessing special antique value, the value of amber fluctuates with its popularity, which in part is dictated by the fashion industry and the prevalence of yellow and browns in one’s wardrobe. Nonetheless, amber has proved itself an ageless gem and will always be loved and admired.
- Amethyst
Amethyst, a transparent purple variety of quartz, is one of the most popular of the colored stones. Once believed to bring peace of mind to the wearer, it was also thought to prevent the wearer from getting drunk, and if the circle of the sun or moon was engraved thereon, amethyst was believed to prevent death from poison.
Available in shades from light to dark purple, this February birthstone is relatively hard, fairly brilliant, and overall a good, versatile, wearable gemstone, available in plentiful supply even in very large sizes (although large sizes with deep color are now becoming Scarce). Amethyst is probably one of the most beautiful gemstones available at a moderate price; buyers should be careful, however, because “fine” amethyst is being produced synthetically today. Most synthetic can be identified by a skill gemologist.
Amethyst may fade from heat and strong sunshine. Guard your amethyst from these conditions and it should retain its color indefinitely. However, complaints have been heard of newly purchased amethyst jewelry fading over just a few months, from deep purple to light lavender. This should not happen, and may result from and unacceptable color treatment. If your gemstone fades this quickly, return it your jeweler.
- Andalusite (Poor Man’s Alexanderite)
Andalusite (Poor Man’s Alexanderite) is now offering interesting new possibilities for jewelry. Brazil is the primary source of these fascinating, fairly hard, and fairly durable gemstones. Andalusite is very interesting because it may exhibit several colors; an olive green in one direction, a rich reddish brown from another direction, and grayish green from yet another direction. In an emerald cut it may look primarily green while exhibiting an orange color at the ends of the emerald shape. In a round cut you may see the green body color with simultaneous flashes of another color. One benefit andalusite has over alexandrite is that you don’t have to change the light in which it is being seen to experience its colors; merely changing the perspective does the trick. A rare and sometimes expensive emerald green variety may exhibit a bright yellow simultaneously, or when viewed from different angles. A pink variety does not exhibit this kind of color phenomenon. While andalusite is not readily available yet, it is finding a market, especially among men.
- Aquamarine
To dream of aquamarine signifies the making of new friends; to wear aquamarine earrings brings love and affection. Aquamarine, a universal symbol of youth, hope, and health, blesses those born in March. (Prior to the 15th century it was considered to be the birthstone for those born in October.)
Aquamarine is a member of the important beryl family, which includes emerald, but aquamarine is less brittle and more durable than its green counterpart. Aquamarine ranges in color from light blue to bluish green to deep blue, the later being the most valuable and desirable. It is a very wearable gem, clear and brilliant, and unlike emerald, is available with excellent clarity even in large sizes, although these are becoming scarce today. Aquamarines are still widely available in sizes up to 15 carats, but 10 carats sizes with fine color and clarity are becoming scarce and are more expensive. Long considered a beautiful and moderately priced gem, it is now entering the “expensive” classification for gemstones in larger sizes with a deep blue color.
Several words of caution for those interested in this lovely gem. First, you may want to think twice before buying a pale or shallow cut stone, since color will become paler as dirt accumulates on the back. These gemstones need constant cleaning to keep them beautiful. Second, be careful not to mistake blue topaz for aquamarine. While topaz is an equally beautiful gem, it is usually much less expensive since it is usually treated to obtain its desirable color. For those who can’t afford an aquamarine, however, blue topaz is an excellent alternative; as long as it is properly represented and priced. Finally, note that many aquamarine colored synthetic spinels are erroneously sold as aquamarine.
- Benitoite
Benitoite, an exquisitely beautiful and rare gem is seldom seen in jewelry, but is very popular among collectors and connoisseurs. Discovered in San Benito, California; hence the name benito-it was recently selected as the official state gemstone of California and we are beginning to see more of it in fine jewelry houses there.
Benitoite ranges from colorless to dark blue (often with a violet tint) to violet. A rare pink variety has been identified. Benitoite can display “fire,” the dispersion of white light into the rainbow colors, comparable to a diamond, and is also very brilliant. It lacks diamond’s incredible hardness, however, and is more comparable to amethyst or tanzanite in hardness. It is difficult to find benitoite in sizes over one carat; only about five stones per year are cut which weigh two carats or more; only one every five years yields a stone five carats or more. Benitoite’s rarity keeps it very expensive; a fine one carat gemstone could easily cost $3,000; and two carats size with fine color are extremely rare and even more costly. The largest fine benitoite known weighs just over 7-3/4 carats, and is on display at the Smithsonian Institution in Washington, D. C.
For jewelry, benitoite is a relatively wearable gemstone, but given its rarity and value, we recommend that it be set in a somewhat protective mounting so that it is not easily subjected to accidental scratching or wear.
- Beryl (Golden Beryl and Morganite)
As early as A. D. 1220 the virtues of beryl (Golden Beryl and Morganite) were well established in legend. Beryl provided help against foes in battle or litigation, made the wearer unconquerable, but at the same time friendly and likable, and also sharpened the wearer’s intellect and cured laziness. Today beryl is considered important, but primarily for aesthetic reasons. The variety of colors in which it is found, its wonderful clarity (except for emerald), its brilliance, and its durability (again with the exception of emerald) have given the various varieties of beryl tremendous appeal.
Most people are familiar with the blue variety of beryl, aquamarine, and the green variety, emerald. Few as yet know the pink variety, morganite, and the beautiful yellow to yellow green variety, referred to as golden beryl. These gems have only recently found their place in the jewelry world but are already being shown in fabulous pieces made by the greatest designers. While not inexpensive, they still offer excellent value and beauty.
Beryl has also been found in many other colors; lilac, salmon, orange, sea green, as well as colorless. While most of these varieties are not as yet available to any but the most ardent rock hound, the orange varieties are fairly common and can still be found. Some orange varieties are heated to produce the more popular pink color and then sold as morganite.
The rarest color is red, which is even more rare than emerald, and comparable in cost. Until recently, it was known only to serious collectors and was called “Bixbite,” after the man who discovered it. The gem variety of red beryl was discovered in Utah, still its only known source. But thanks to the discovery of anew deposit, we are now beginning to see this exciting gemstone in the jewelry market. It faces a major problem, however; what to call it. Some dealers are calling it “red emerald” because it is the same basic material as emerald and because it is truly comparable to emerald in rarity, beauty, and value. Whatever the name by which it is called; red emerald, red beryl, or “Bixbite,” it is a beautiful gem that should be loved and cherished by anyone lucky enough to own one.
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Bijan Aziz is the owner and Web Master for The Jewelry Hut.
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The best source for fine Diamond, gemstone, and Pearl Jewelry on the Web
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Although it also applies to traditional brick and mortar jewelry retail stores, the surge of e-commerce through the advancing internet infrastructure and a significant decrease in overhead costs enable many entrepreneurs to start their own businesses online. Combined with the exponentially increasing number of web users, online retail has become an attractive opportunity for people who want something for their own.
The online retail sales grossed about $110 billion in 2005 and jewelry category accounted for 5% of the total. Other major categories include books, apparel, computer related, electronics and drugs. The reason why jewelry is particularly attractive to a lot of entrepreneurs is that the startup capital could be small and the logistics is easy to control. The reason is that the spectrum of jewelry range from costume jewelry to silver jewelry to diamond luxury items, which offers a flexible startup capital requirement. Also, due to the nature of jewelry, it does not require a large storage space in the beginning and is relatively easily to package and ship.
For someone who is already convinced that jewelry store is a feasible online business, the next question would obviously be where to get the merchandize. To answer this question, we have to state the characteristics that one should look for when selecting a vendor. I know some of you are thinking “prices”. Sure, different vendors have different prices for similar items, is the one with the lowest prices odd to be the one we should work with?
Granted, your vendor’s pricing is crucial to the success of your business, this is all about money after all. Nonetheless, in order to be competitive in the market, there are many other facts you might want to get from a wholesaler before any decision is made.
Firstly, especially in jewelry and apparel industry, the vendor has to have the sense to the changing fashion trends. New styles come out every day and popular styles are changing every season, it makes a huge difference between your vendor selling styles that were hot last summer rather than styles that just got exposed in a French fashion show. You should do your own research, of course, but a vendor with the good connections and senses propels your business and saves you a lot of time.
Secondly, if you decide to carry some unique styles that can rarely be found anywhere else, do make sure you get them from a vendor who guarantees the availability of the stock. By doing this, you can maximize your effort for processing each item. Typical pre-processing of an item are photo-taking, editing, copywriting and data entry. If the vendor runs out of stock for most of the items you purchased, and not being able to perform back-ordering, the effort for maintaining the inventory will be dramatically increased.
Also, the reputation for a vendor is very important. The authenticity of goods is vital to building a successfully business. Ask for reference if possible and get multiple of them for the same vendor. Selling counterfeit or fake jewelry not only will harm your business, it is illegal. Watch out for fake gemstones such as diamonds and sapphires, treated gemstones for enhancing colors, incorrect purity of metals such as 14k, 18k gold and 925 silver not having the amount of metal as claimed.
Finally, like any business relationships, vendors with good customer services can help your business in many ways. For instance, custom jewelry manufacturing, resizing and repairing are typically services that a jewelry wholesaler might provide.
Greg Peterson got his MBA from MIT business school and is now working as marketing manager for jewelry businesses featuring hip hop jewelry wholesale and sterling silver manufacturing.
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